Ottawa might be the last place one would expect to find a slice of Southern hospitality. But Centretown’s Union613 is bringing its take on the comfort cuisine of the American south to residents of Canada’s capital.

Opened in 2012 and nestled on the busy block of Somerset between Bank and O’Connor, the restaurant made me feel like I was in a Canadian’s imagining of a hipster Southern town like Austin, Texas. Exposed wood and an off-beat collection of art make the restaurant feel like an old neighbourhood place the whole town knows. Indie rock sounds and mason jar glasses invite a cool crowd. During my visit I sat next to a wall of old books, which added to the cozy community feel. The casual disposition of the waitstaff made it seem like we were already friends. Even on a slow Monday night, the atmosphere was lively.

Creative cocktails

The selection of cocktails and mocktails offer a great way to get started. The menu presents new spins on old favourites. I started with the Simon Says: a unique drink that is mostly a cross between a negroni and an espresso martini. I also sampled the This is Not a Caesar. This cocktail was the standout—bright and herbal from the cilantro gin with an umami punch from the Worcestershire sauce. It brought the classic kick of a spicy Caesar but lighter, due to the use of a shrub—a vinegar, sugar, and favour mixer—replacing the classic Clamato.

Culinary tradition meets innovation

Union613’s claim of “southern food without any notion of authenticity” gives chef Christopher Lord a freedom of creativity that makes the restaurant’s menu stand out. He balances classic Southern dishes that are approachable for casual diners with elevated takes that appeal to foodie palettes. The quality that brings them all together is his ability to perfectly balance flavours.

Take the fried green tomatoes: an acidic punch from the tomato itself is complemented by the nuttiness of a cornmeal batter. Served with a dill-heavy cucumber salad, the dish feels oddly fresh for being deep fried. The same can be said about the tempura deviled eggs—warmly spiced yolk filling with a light tempura batter that satisfy the mouth with both flavour and texture. Curried cauliflower might seem like a strange choice for a Southern-inspired menu, but Chef Pawan’s authentic Indian gravy paired with rich confit tomatoes gives customers the same sense of comfort food as their more classic shrimp ‘n grits.

As a vegetarian, Southern-style joints aren’t usually on my radar for a night out. But Union’s liberal take on the Southern theme results in fare that caters to many diet styles. The Frito pie, served traditionally in the corn chip bag, can be made vegetarian or vegan. Their two dessert options— a sweet potato coffee cake and a chickpea flour crème brûlée brownie—cover the bases for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free diners.

Small-town feel

During my visit, Union did fall victim to the dreaded trope of service dropping off towards the end of a meal, but I would imagine on a heavier staffed busy weeknight this would not likely be the case.

Dining at Union613, I felt like I was in the cozy comfort of a trendy small town. It was a pleasant escape to feel transported away from Ottawa. The restaurant’s ability to balance familiarity with newness make it the place to be for a meal out. On my next visit, I look forward to contributing to their community spirit by trying their Amethyst Teatoler: a mocktail whose proceeds go to supporting Amethyst Women’s Addiction Centre.

Anna Farinaccio is a Professional Writing student at Algonquin College. Born in Ottawa, Ontario, Anna’s parents raised her on a wide range of music. They taught her about the significant role music plays in society and culture. She grew up pursuing many creative passions, such as dance and theatre. These passions led her to a career in writing. Musicians and their influence inspire Anna everyday. A long-time punk fan, the first song she added to her childhood MP3 player was The Clash’s, “Train in Vain.”